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Hello everybody,

I have a 2019 GT-line 2.0 RWD Stinger, 71k miles (115k km) that has all of the GT2 (3.3l) options except for the brembo brakes (yes, I have the adaptive suspension as well, it's a German version of the car with all of the options).

I see very high fuel usage during my daily commute and I did some tests at night on the highway, both in summer and winter. Premium tires for summer and winter, at the recommended pressure, no luggage / people in the car, warm engine and transmission:
- 110 km/h = 8.0l/100km // 69MPH = 29MPG (8th gear at 1850-1900 rpm)
- 130 km/h = 10l/100km // 82MPH = 24MPG (8th gear at 2150-2200 rpm)

This happens on ECO, Comfort and Sport mode.

This is tested exclusively on a straight highway road and it doesn't take into consideration the accelerations to get up to speed when entering the highway, it's strictly constant accelerator pedal and speed.

From what I could find on the forums, even the 3.3 Stinger gets better fuel economy when cruising like this. So something must be wrong with mine. I've drove another Stinger exactly like mine and that one had better fuel economy, on the same road I did the tests (29-30MPG at 85MPH // 8l/100km at 135km/h). Both cars have the same ECU and TCU software version, the one after the GPF issue was fixed in the software, so it cannot be that popular GPF logic bug that was happening on early softwares.

- replaced the spark plugs, the old ones had around 30k km (20k miles) and were black (attached photo)
- I did a smoke test for the intake, no leaks detected.
- The fuel rail pressure stays around 20000 kpa (2900 psi).
- The O2 sensor reports fluctuations between 0.95 and 0.98, where 1 is stoichiometric A/F ratio and 2 is 100% oxygen and 0% fuel, so it reports just a bit rich mixture, too small I think to count. Also the other Stinger that I drove had the same values and not the consumption issue.
- LTFT stayed at 4.5% and STFT stayed around -1% to 1%
- intake manifold absolute pressure was at 97-100kpa
- timing advance between 15 and 18 degrees
- cat 1 temp 780°C and cat 2 temp 680°C
- engine coolant stays around 100°C, engine oil is around the same temperature

It drives me crazy cause I use it as a daily and burns through my pocked with that fuel usage (20-25% more than it should). In mixed driving I get around 15l/100km (15MPG) without any hard accelerations.

I am planning to do the following hoping I might find the issue:
- replace the fuel pressure sensor (a few times I got the P0191 error and was showing fuel rail pressure at 500-600 kpa, so 10-40 times lower than normal, goes away after turning the engine off and on again)
- try to see if the dealership can override the current ECU fuel map with the stock one, to make sure the previous owner did not try to tune it or anything
- replace the upstream O2 sensor
- take down the GPF and have it checked physically at a specialized service to make sure it is not clogged
- replace the MAP sensor
- replace the HPFP

If anyone can help me in this matter would be great!

Just did intakes on my 3.3T and started getting a P04DB code for disconnected vacuum line. Checked all my connections and they seem good. Retightened everything and the code went from coming up every drive (2-3 miles), to popping up only every 100 or so miles. Trying to troubleshoot with tests over 100 miles isn’t very fun, so hoping I could cut down some areas that could be causing the issue if I could find out where the sensor that throws the code is located. Obviously has something to do with one of my connections, problem is just finding which one. Even under full load @16lbs of boost it doesn’t always throw the code.

Anyone here know? Or know what diagram I could look to find it?

The window on the driver side started doing this almost one year ago, so I went to the dealer and they replaced the whole window lift assembly except the motor. The problem was still there, so they replaced the rubber channel, which still didn't fix the issue. They are now thinking to replace the motor...


A couple of weeks ago the same problem started on the passenger side and today all windows present the same issue.


The problem is not related to the window button/command, it happens also when using the key fob.


Is this happening to anyone else? Any idea what the problem is and how to fix it?

Thanks!

Hey all,

I'm loving my car despite a handful of issues. However, this is the most annoying by far. The audio will randomly cut out for half second, usually accompanied by an audio pop. It happens more after a couple minutes of driving and playing music, but the car doesn't need to be moving. At first I assumed this was an Android Auto glitch, so I ran audio just through Bluetooth, still occurred. At this point I figured it could just be my phone, so I connected an MP3 player to the AUX port, and it still happened. So I can now rule out the device playing the music, the interface, bluetooth, Android Auto, etc., everything but the car stereo itself. At this point, what could it be? I will have to take it into the shop, rip out the stereo / infotainment, and see if its faulty wiring or a bad unit. Unless there's some other "known issue" that causes this.

I noticed what appears to be cracked insulation (photos below)
Anyone know what this is and if it's normal or needs to be repaired?

The Stinger is currently at the dealer and the inspection did not mention this at all.

Thanks!

Upcoming recall for Stingers with 3.3TT engines regarding the driver side turbo oil feed line potentially deteriorating overtime due to head and leaking oil.

This was one of the things I was afraid of happening to my car since it’s 160,000km without warranty.

If the amber DBL is displayed on your instrument cluster this might be very helpful to you.

There is a TSB to replace the moisture absorbent packet and bracket inside the back of the headlight. The moisture absorbent packet gets so swollen that it presses against the servo module that swivels the headlights.

The Kia dealer told me it had 0 parts availability in the entire United States. I also was told that I had to stuff the blown up packet and broken bracket back into the headlight if I wanted it to be covered under warranty. What a bunch of BS.

So I ordered the parts directly from Korea.


Parts are crazy cheap from this website. Like 50-75% off for OEM parts. But the shipping isn't cheap. I chose the FedEx option for shipping. Parts arrived in 5 business days from when I placed my order. Skip the dealer and do it yourself.

Jack the car up. You don't have to remove the wheel. There is a access door inside of the wheel well. Once you pop open the access door you will see the round piece which holds the absorbent packet. It's even labeled with open/close arrows. It might take some force to open since the packet is swollen and creating pressure.

If you plan to keep the car these absorbent packets probably need to be replaced every 2 or 3 years. Hope this helps someone.

Got my GT2 a few weeks ago and love it. I have been making changes to it (sway bars and such) but have not been able to get rid of this odd behavior.

If I'm driving, I will continuously get a slight up/down quick vibration from what feels like the front suspension.

I have replaced rotors&pads and have moved to Whiteline swaybars, but it still remains.

I feel like it COULD be misbalanced tires, but this is felt throughout the mph range and is much more noticeable over roads with small bumps or such in them.

I checked sway bar end links when switching out sway bars, and didn't notice any leaks or tears in the boots.

Car only has 49K on it.

Hi everyone,

I recently got a 19' GT1 AWD, and I have the BMS 450WHP kit, and a TiAL BOV, with the BMS adapter and I was wondering if this looks good for a 1/4-mile run. I have been reading into the expected boost levels and was wondering if these logs look alright or not. Any help is greatly appreciated.