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Good morning,

I've been waiting to have this exhaust installed since mid December when I received it and yesterday it all went down at a reputable shop I decided on. I went without the resonators and am very impressed by the tone of this exhaust and the theatrics it offers for the Stinger, especially ripping on the highway.

I had the entire exhaust welded, starting with a mid pipe flange delete. The mild steel of the OEM (2023) flange was heavily rusted and this was the way to go. It was mated up nicely with the cats and welded directly. I don't have a picture of the work done on this section.

I requested to have the quad exit pipes extended to match how the OEM setup was positioned in the bezels. I am very happy with how it looks, it is hard to tell that it is modified at first glance but if you know you know and that's exactly how I like it.

This exhaust has an intense low frequency drone right around 2.5K RPM - I knew this going in and it was the primary reason for extending the exit pipes.

The passenger side exhaust actuator connector wiring had to have its retainer clip disconnected to allow connection to the actuator when mounted on the MBRP catback. The wiring was pulled tight here and is just long enough to connect - I will probably need to extend the connector wiring on this side to accommodate my 11Mode controller.

Here are some pictures:

Hello everybody,

I have a 2019 GT-line 2.0 RWD Stinger, 71k miles (115k km) that has all of the GT2 (3.3l) options except for the brembo brakes (yes, I have the adaptive suspension as well, it's a German version of the car with all of the options).

I see very high fuel usage during my daily commute and I did some tests at night on the highway, both in summer and winter. Premium tires for summer and winter, at the recommended pressure, no luggage / people in the car, warm engine and transmission:
- 110 km/h = 8.0l/100km // 69MPH = 29MPG (8th gear at 1850-1900 rpm)
- 130 km/h = 10l/100km // 82MPH = 24MPG (8th gear at 2150-2200 rpm)

This happens on ECO, Comfort and Sport mode.

This is tested exclusively on a straight highway road and it doesn't take into consideration the accelerations to get up to speed when entering the highway, it's strictly constant accelerator pedal and speed.

From what I could find on the forums, even the 3.3 Stinger gets better fuel economy when cruising like this. So something must be wrong with mine. I've drove another Stinger exactly like mine and that one had better fuel economy, on the same road I did the tests (29-30MPG at 85MPH // 8l/100km at 135km/h). Both cars have the same ECU and TCU software version, the one after the GPF issue was fixed in the software, so it cannot be that popular GPF logic bug that was happening on early softwares.

- replaced the spark plugs, the old ones had around 30k km (20k miles) and were black (attached photo)
- I did a smoke test for the intake, no leaks detected.
- The fuel rail pressure stays around 20000 kpa (2900 psi).
- The O2 sensor reports fluctuations between 0.95 and 0.98, where 1 is stoichiometric A/F ratio and 2 is 100% oxygen and 0% fuel, so it reports just a bit rich mixture, too small I think to count. Also the other Stinger that I drove had the same values and not the consumption issue.
- LTFT stayed at 4.5% and STFT stayed around -1% to 1%
- intake manifold absolute pressure was at 97-100kpa
- timing advance between 15 and 18 degrees
- cat 1 temp 780°C and cat 2 temp 680°C
- engine coolant stays around 100°C, engine oil is around the same temperature

It drives me crazy cause I use it as a daily and burns through my pocked with that fuel usage (20-25% more than it should). In mixed driving I get around 15l/100km (15MPG) without any hard accelerations.

I am planning to do the following hoping I might find the issue:
- replace the fuel pressure sensor (a few times I got the P0191 error and was showing fuel rail pressure at 500-600 kpa, so 10-40 times lower than normal, goes away after turning the engine off and on again)
- try to see if the dealership can override the current ECU fuel map with the stock one, to make sure the previous owner did not try to tune it or anything
- replace the upstream O2 sensor
- take down the GPF and have it checked physically at a specialized service to make sure it is not clogged
- replace the MAP sensor
- replace the HPFP

If anyone can help me in this matter would be great!

Hi, I'm new to this forum and I'd like to ask for your advice. I'm from Europe so please take my English with a grain of salt .

I've owned a 2018 Stinger 3.3T for 2 years. Lately I've been having a battery drain problem.

The whole story started with the original battery in the car and one day I couldn't start it. So I figured that since the battery was original, it must be the problem and I bought the same new AGM battery which I installed.

I drove the car for about 2 days when the problem happened again. The battery was so drained that I couldn't even open the car with the key fob.

We then took the car to the service center where they found that the car had a low idle current draw and at such a high rate that it could drain the battery from night to morning.

The mechanics can't help because they've checked the electronics but can't figure out where the problem is.

I've probably read all the forums where this or a similar problem has been solved. But no one has written a solution to the problem when they solved it

Please give me any advice that will help get the stinger back on the road :-D

Thanks, group

I have a Kia Stinger and recently took it to an official dealership because the particulate filter was clogged and needed regeneration.

The dealership performed a forced regeneration using their diagnostic system. During this process, the exhaust system overheated significantly. My car has an aftermarket sports exhaust installed.

After the procedure, multiple issues appeared:

• The exhaust system was overheated and damaged
• The center console area inside the car (around the transmission tunnel, gear selector, and cup holders) was damaged by heat
• The gearbox had to be removed afterwards
• There are signs that heat may have reached even the seat area

The damage is not limited to the exhaust but extends into the interior of the car, which seems very unusual to me.

The dealership is now refusing to cover the damages, claiming that:

1. The car was imported
2. It has a non-original (aftermarket) exhaust

I have also installed a pedalbox (throttle controller), but as far as I understand, that should not affect regeneration.

My questions:

• Is it technically possible that a forced GPF regeneration could cause this level of heat damage (including inside the cabin)?
• Could an aftermarket exhaust realistically cause this kind of damage during regeneration?
• Has anyone experienced similar cases where a forced regeneration led to excessive heat or damage?
• Does this sound like improper procedure or negligence from the workshop?

Any insights or similar experiences would be greatly appreciated.

With the Stinger's release right around the corner, Post pics and give updates of what you did to your Stinger. From a simple car wash to installing aftermarket items. Andddddd go!

There's lots of mods and upgrades to be seen at KDM Warehouse!

High Point, NC here. '18 Premium, Micro Blue w/Driver assist.

I have some RWD tuxmats for sale that came from my 2020 Kia Stinger 3.3 RWD. Getting rid of them because I sold the vehicle. Because the weather, I wasn't able to clean them but they are in great condition. Clips are already installed on the edges of the mats. Comes with both the front and the rears (no trunk mat). Asking $140 shipped.

Last weekend, my BF and I went to a dark sky area to do night photography. Because his night vision leaves something to be desired, on the way back home I drove his car, a 2018 Stinger Base AWD on a long, winding, country road and I could not get the high beams to turn on. Came home and checked fuses (under hood 10A for hi beam relay), pulled one of the headlights out (to find that it is single filament), tried messing with the stalk and such, no luck.

The high beam light comes on in the instrument cluster, it does not matter if it is in Auto/Manual headlight mode. I assume Kia is using some type of visor internal to the projector to change from low to high beam? The fuse mentions "High Beam Relay" but I cannot find a relay for the high beams. Neither side responds so I am thinking it may be electrical and not a failure of the high beams on the individual lamps.

Anyone have any ideas before I have him take it to the dealer. Car is at 64k miles so it is no longer bumper to bumper, although it was bought in the last 3 months from Autonation so I may give them a call to see if they will consider fixing it at a reduced rate.

I won't rehash all the problems everyone's had finding updates with the web site down but I may have a small victory. I have my local dealer downloading an update for my 22' GT2. I have no idea if they are gonna charge me but I'll happily pay something. I really need my Android Auto to fill my display. Anyway now I'm worried if I gave him the right update to download. I found it somewhere. It's CKPE.USA.S5W_M.V014.010.250818.

I'll be happy to put it in a drop box if it works. I wonder if anyone can verify that's the one. Right now I'm at

Gonna disconnect my JB4 before I take her in for main seal and filter housing replacement. Before I take out the CAI and make room to get to disconnecting my EWG wires, can the wastegates be accessed from underneath the car once I remove the cover?

Kevin