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2018 GT2 AWD, 108k mi, looks like my good luck might finally be running out.
Here's what my dash looks like after driving around the block:
As you can see, I've been accumulating lights on my dash over the last ~9 months. First, the EPB, red Brake and amber Auto Hold lights would come on intermittantly, then as of about 4 months ago they came on as soon as I start the car and stay on. This would also disable cruise control whenever the lights were on.
The traction, ABS, forward collision, and the top right warning lights came next ~2 months ago, just randomly showed up one day and come on and stay on as soon as I start the car now.
The AWD light in the top left does not come on when I start the car, but comes on soon after driving for a bit.
Mechanically, the car still feels absolutely fine, except for the fact that the cruise control is disabled and the front wheels no longer get power once the ABS light comes on. The front parking sensors still work but presumably the actual forward collision avoidance is disabled as well. No weird noises, no starting problems, no actual CEL or anything like that.
Those are all the codes I currently have. Initial Googling wasn't too helpful, but some responses told me that maybe my battery could be on it's way out. I had it load tested at a local place and they said it's a touch low but still well within acceptable, and since I'm not having any other starting/electrical problems and they didn't even try to sell me a new one I figured I'm good there. The only other things Google immediately turned up were either a general wiring issue somewhere or...
Pics from my wheel speed sensors. That seems to be the first common problem that would cause this, but I'm not really sure what's going on here. As you can see, they're reading rather different values between front and rear. First pic was taken at ~55 MPH. Immediately I thought my tires must just be uneven. So, I went home and swapped my fronts and rear wheels around (I have square 235/45R18s). Second pic is ~60 MPH after swapping my front and rear tires, same issue. First of all, if a sensor was bad, wouldn't it just be reporting nothing? Is it possible that two of the sensors are failing at the exact same time, and in exactly the same way?
Other than that, the only thing that looks obvious to me is the C138201 Hall level sensor fault. Again, Googling didn't turn up too much on this so I'm not really sure where to go with that, and would that really be causing all these problems?
I haven't tried clearing any of the codes yet. Almost all of them are reading as active though so I assume they would just come back. Anyone have any idea how I can fix this? I would prefer to order parts and do the work myself if possible if someone can point me at what to replace. Thank you!!
Here's what my dash looks like after driving around the block:
As you can see, I've been accumulating lights on my dash over the last ~9 months. First, the EPB, red Brake and amber Auto Hold lights would come on intermittantly, then as of about 4 months ago they came on as soon as I start the car and stay on. This would also disable cruise control whenever the lights were on.
The traction, ABS, forward collision, and the top right warning lights came next ~2 months ago, just randomly showed up one day and come on and stay on as soon as I start the car now.
The AWD light in the top left does not come on when I start the car, but comes on soon after driving for a bit.
Mechanically, the car still feels absolutely fine, except for the fact that the cruise control is disabled and the front wheels no longer get power once the ABS light comes on. The front parking sensors still work but presumably the actual forward collision avoidance is disabled as well. No weird noises, no starting problems, no actual CEL or anything like that.
Those are all the codes I currently have. Initial Googling wasn't too helpful, but some responses told me that maybe my battery could be on it's way out. I had it load tested at a local place and they said it's a touch low but still well within acceptable, and since I'm not having any other starting/electrical problems and they didn't even try to sell me a new one I figured I'm good there. The only other things Google immediately turned up were either a general wiring issue somewhere or...
Pics from my wheel speed sensors. That seems to be the first common problem that would cause this, but I'm not really sure what's going on here. As you can see, they're reading rather different values between front and rear. First pic was taken at ~55 MPH. Immediately I thought my tires must just be uneven. So, I went home and swapped my fronts and rear wheels around (I have square 235/45R18s). Second pic is ~60 MPH after swapping my front and rear tires, same issue. First of all, if a sensor was bad, wouldn't it just be reporting nothing? Is it possible that two of the sensors are failing at the exact same time, and in exactly the same way?
Other than that, the only thing that looks obvious to me is the C138201 Hall level sensor fault. Again, Googling didn't turn up too much on this so I'm not really sure where to go with that, and would that really be causing all these problems?
I haven't tried clearing any of the codes yet. Almost all of them are reading as active though so I assume they would just come back. Anyone have any idea how I can fix this? I would prefer to order parts and do the work myself if possible if someone can point me at what to replace. Thank you!!
9 replies
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573 views
I've been sort of compiling and validating some combinations. Criteria: avoiding poke, trying to find ways to improve on the stock look without compromising performance too much, etc. Seems like an okay start, might be cool if we could add to it (original in Excel has formulas and all that bit.) Thoughts?
Corrected/updated:
Link to editable Google Sheet. Add your own, etc. Play nice. Wheel Tire Options
Seriously nifty comprehensive calculator linked by @YOWStinger : Rim & Tire Size Calculator. Custom Offsets
Corrected/updated:
Link to editable Google Sheet. Add your own, etc. Play nice. Wheel Tire Options
- Added columns for AWD/RWD and lowered or not.
Seriously nifty comprehensive calculator linked by @YOWStinger : Rim & Tire Size Calculator. Custom Offsets
1093 replies
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285429 views
Hi all,
Just into my second week of Stinger ownership and unfortunately I’m unconvinced this is going to be the car for me, but I’ve always tried to participate in owners clubs and communities so here I am. Also thanks to the community for all the content already on here, it was very useful when researching the car.
Bit of background: I’m U.K. based and have a red over black Stinger GTS (which I think is a GT2 RWD everywhere else in the world). I’m coming to this car from the love of my automotive life, a 2004 350z that I owned for 15 years, maintained mostly myself and did some significant but tasteful mods to. The stinger is supposed to be my grown up car now that I’ve got a new 120 mile round trip I’ll have to do once or twice a week.
I was sure before buying that this was the car for me but I have to say it’s not been a great ownership experience so far, although a lot of that is to do with the dealer and the particular car, not the Stinger in general. Buying an in-warranty car from a main dealer I figured I’d be pretty safe, but every time I drive the car I find something else not right with it. Some of this I’m just annoyed at myself for not noticing when I viewed the car, but some of this is stuff that the dealer had hidden or was done to the car between me seeing it and it being delivered, which is the kind of thing you’d expect from shady used car types, not a main dealer franchise.
I’m pretty much 50/50 right now on whether I keep the car and try to make the most of it or cut my losses and take the hit on trading it in for something else. Hoping the community can inject me with a bit of enthusiasm, as it’s running really low right now.
Many thanks,
MS
Just into my second week of Stinger ownership and unfortunately I’m unconvinced this is going to be the car for me, but I’ve always tried to participate in owners clubs and communities so here I am. Also thanks to the community for all the content already on here, it was very useful when researching the car.
Bit of background: I’m U.K. based and have a red over black Stinger GTS (which I think is a GT2 RWD everywhere else in the world). I’m coming to this car from the love of my automotive life, a 2004 350z that I owned for 15 years, maintained mostly myself and did some significant but tasteful mods to. The stinger is supposed to be my grown up car now that I’ve got a new 120 mile round trip I’ll have to do once or twice a week.
I was sure before buying that this was the car for me but I have to say it’s not been a great ownership experience so far, although a lot of that is to do with the dealer and the particular car, not the Stinger in general. Buying an in-warranty car from a main dealer I figured I’d be pretty safe, but every time I drive the car I find something else not right with it. Some of this I’m just annoyed at myself for not noticing when I viewed the car, but some of this is stuff that the dealer had hidden or was done to the car between me seeing it and it being delivered, which is the kind of thing you’d expect from shady used car types, not a main dealer franchise.
I’m pretty much 50/50 right now on whether I keep the car and try to make the most of it or cut my losses and take the hit on trading it in for something else. Hoping the community can inject me with a bit of enthusiasm, as it’s running really low right now.
Many thanks,
MS
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29 views
My driver's side just went out. And I don't want to putvthe OE reflectors back in.
4 replies
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112 views
Good morning,
I've been waiting to have this exhaust installed since mid December when I received it and yesterday it all went down at a reputable shop I decided on. I went without the resonators and am very impressed by the tone of this exhaust and the theatrics it offers for the Stinger, especially ripping on the highway.
I had the entire exhaust welded, starting with a mid pipe flange delete. The mild steel of the OEM (2023) flange was heavily rusted and this was the way to go. It was mated up nicely with the cats and welded directly. I don't have a picture of the work done on this section.
I requested to have the quad exit pipes extended to match how the OEM setup was positioned in the bezels. I am very happy with how it looks, it is hard to tell that it is modified at first glance but if you know you know and that's exactly how I like it.
This exhaust has an intense low frequency drone right around 2.5K RPM - I knew this going in and it was the primary reason for extending the exit pipes.
The passenger side exhaust actuator connector wiring had to have its retainer clip disconnected to allow connection to the actuator when mounted on the MBRP catback. The wiring was pulled tight here and is just long enough to connect - I will probably need to extend the connector wiring on this side to accommodate my 11Mode controller.
Here are some pictures:
I've been waiting to have this exhaust installed since mid December when I received it and yesterday it all went down at a reputable shop I decided on. I went without the resonators and am very impressed by the tone of this exhaust and the theatrics it offers for the Stinger, especially ripping on the highway.
I had the entire exhaust welded, starting with a mid pipe flange delete. The mild steel of the OEM (2023) flange was heavily rusted and this was the way to go. It was mated up nicely with the cats and welded directly. I don't have a picture of the work done on this section.
I requested to have the quad exit pipes extended to match how the OEM setup was positioned in the bezels. I am very happy with how it looks, it is hard to tell that it is modified at first glance but if you know you know and that's exactly how I like it.
This exhaust has an intense low frequency drone right around 2.5K RPM - I knew this going in and it was the primary reason for extending the exit pipes.
The passenger side exhaust actuator connector wiring had to have its retainer clip disconnected to allow connection to the actuator when mounted on the MBRP catback. The wiring was pulled tight here and is just long enough to connect - I will probably need to extend the connector wiring on this side to accommodate my 11Mode controller.
Here are some pictures:
2 replies
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131 views
Anyone else have oil leaking from this location?
Went to do an oil change today, and notice oil dripping on the steering rack motor. seems to be either coming out of the top of the oil filter housing near the crank and or from where the oil cooler attaches to the filter housing.
Anyone else have this issue?
Car is a 2022 GT2 with 72,000 miles
pic is below
Went to do an oil change today, and notice oil dripping on the steering rack motor. seems to be either coming out of the top of the oil filter housing near the crank and or from where the oil cooler attaches to the filter housing.
Anyone else have this issue?
Car is a 2022 GT2 with 72,000 miles
pic is below
82 replies
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13598 views
I have the stinger gt and I’m thinking about going for intakes first then a dyno tune and an exhaust, will this net me the most power reliably?
0 replies
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26 views
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Legacy View
Hello I hope this gets a little traction, I just bought my 19 Kia stinger gt, I think want to get it around 400-450 who, I see alot of people talking about the jb4 piggy back tune but I have a really hard time trusting it. Any insight? Theres a reputable dyno shop near me I can get a dyno tune at. Should I go down that route?
1 replies
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44 views
My GT2 has been in storage for 5 months so I wanted to circulate the oil before starting the car. I pulled the 15A "sensor 1" fuse in the engine bay. It's described as the fuel pump fuse. Pushed the start button and the car started right up and ran great. No warning lights on the dash or anything. So, so much for circulating oil before starting.
Does anyone have a way of turning over the engine to circulate oil without starting it that actually works?
Does anyone have a way of turning over the engine to circulate oil without starting it that actually works?
17 replies
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144 views
Hi folks, I'm excited to take her on the final roadtrip in my bucket list (NC500).
I'm planning on going in March and aiming to be back home before the kids are released from school.
I'm hoping to alternate between hotel and car camping for a balanced budget and experience. My only worry is getting a flat as I have patch kits but hoping I get signal for the AA incase I breakdown.
I really want to do the apple cross pass but given the size of the vehicle, I might skip.
Given the 300mile range I think I'm safe without a petrol can as I will fill up as much as I can between towns
Starting in Inverness, 7 days counter clockwise.
Let me know if you have any tips for this trip.
I'm planning on going in March and aiming to be back home before the kids are released from school.
I'm hoping to alternate between hotel and car camping for a balanced budget and experience. My only worry is getting a flat as I have patch kits but hoping I get signal for the AA incase I breakdown.
I really want to do the apple cross pass but given the size of the vehicle, I might skip.
Given the 300mile range I think I'm safe without a petrol can as I will fill up as much as I can between towns
Starting in Inverness, 7 days counter clockwise.
Let me know if you have any tips for this trip.
13 replies
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312 views
Brand new / never installed Mishi Oil Catch can I did pimp the hoses but easy to undo if you don't like it - Looking for $300 OBO GTA Pick up or meet
drive.google.com
drive.google.com
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drive.google.com
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drive.google.com
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857 views