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With the Stinger's release right around the corner, Post pics and give updates of what you did to your Stinger. From a simple car wash to installing aftermarket items. Andddddd go!

There's lots of mods and upgrades to be seen at KDM Warehouse!

Ok new here and have an idea or 5 of improving the interior and exterior with some lighting. Here’s some details and finding for anyone that wants copy.

1. Ambient footwell light that matches the car stock and can be change in the cars menu. Already started on this, OEM light controller behind the dash on passenger side. Car LED system runs on 5.5v trough the Orange + wire, the remainder RGB wires do what the colours say 0.03v when non colour 0.05v when coloured.

2. Ambient light front and rear round air vents, taking a tap again from the stock led controller behind the dash so this all matches the cars colours and be controlled in the OEM menu.

3. Create my own CK71 DRL front lights. This is what I’m struggling with… the Aliexpress ones look terrible, chunky and cheap. I’ve seen people using Diode Dynamic LEDs for this but they are over $150 to buy and post to the UK. I’m struggling to find any switchback strips in the UK that don’t have sequential lighting for the turn signal or a crap looking start up sequence. My other option is a smaller than the size and cut the metal piece that’s in there from stock to fit.

4. Create my own sequential rear lights, again due to cost of getting the ones offered online posted to the uk I’m gona go for this my self see how I get on.

I plan on posting images and updates of doing all of this to keep people posted

Any help in people’s experience or finding relevant parts it’s always welcome

I dug up a bunch of old photos and files related to this project from August 2024 that I want to share with whomever is interested in this type of thing. This project is not over and I am still developing this, now with a much better design and combination with my own 'brake snip' modification, so stay tuned for that I guess.

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I've owned a wind booster GT (GT607L) for a long time and am quite fond of this little gadget. I had it on my '18 GT limited and now on my '23 GT limited. This post is about the customization I have done to my unit and the ongoing development of a higher quality, permanent design to share with the community.

It began when I had the module installed on my '18 Stinger and experienced a few dangerous situations where the device malfunctioned and randomly caused unintended acceleration rise while driving and even limp mode due either a module fault, faulty electrical connection or a significant mismatch between throttle position and feedback signal. I don't know.

I thought my wind booster may have been permanently faulty and removed it from the car. I decided to hang onto it and develop a full bypass back-to-stock relay module to activate as soon as I detect a malfunction. The details of this relay module are what I will share here.



The GT607L.

Back-to-stock bypass means full electrical isolation of the wind booster module from the electrical connector of the accelerator pedal and the electrical connector of the car-side wiring. The standard installation requires the wind booster module be inserted "in-line" between the car-side connector and the accelerator pedal. There are (2) 6-pin connectors passing (6) wires in and (6) wires out (12 total) of the wind booster module. To completely isolate the module from the car-side and accelerator side, an additional 12 wires are needed for a total of 24. This is accomplished by implementing (3) 4PDT (four-pole-double-throw) control relays to handle the switching of 24 connections.

If you happen to have a strong understanding of electromechanical relays, you can skip this next part where I explain the function and operation.

4PDT means four isolated connections (four-pole) "IN" with two (double throw) "OUT" paths each, where each (double throw) has both a normally open (N.O.) and normally closed (N.C.) contact (pathway) to make external connections with. This configuration is known as a "form C" contact arrangement.
Three (3) 4PDT represents (12) "IN" paths and (24) "OUT" paths across all relays. "Normal" is the term used to describe the state of a relays electrical contacts (pathways) when no electrical activation signal is applied to the electromagnetic coil - it can also be referred to being at, "rest". The "not-normal" state describes the other condition, where an electrical activation signal is applied to the electromagnetic coil and the electrical contacts (pathways) physically change internally (changeover) due to armature (linkage) movement. It's important to mention that a form C contact arrangement is non-polarized, meaning the "IN" and "OUT" sides that I described are not functionally significant but rather, intuitively helpful.

To summarize the double throw relay function:
- A N.C. (normally closed) pathway will have electrical continuity from "IN" to "OUT" on the "OUT" (throw) indicated as N.C.
- A N.O. (normally open) pathway will not have electrical continuity from "IN" to "OUT" on the "OUT" (throw) indicated as N.O.
- These electrical states are always inverse of each other

Across three (3) 4PDT relays there are (12) N.C. contacts available. I used these contacts to bypass the wind booster module. In this way the male electrical connector from the car can be connected directly to the female electrical connector on the accelerator pedal. Conversely, (12) N.O. contacts are available and used to connect the same male and female 6-pin electrical connectors (car-side and accelerator pedal) instead to the 6 input and output wires, respectively, of the wind booster module.

Interposing wiring and neat extension splicing is required to make these connections remotely as described.



Four (4) 6/C (6-conductor) cables are needed to make 24 connections to the three (3) 4PDT relays. I used #18 AWG.





I made this proto-board circuit in August 2024. Here you can see the through-hole relays which are Omron KS23051: DC 5V 4P2T 2A. This circuit is powered by 5 VDC sourced from the USB port in the car. To make this work, the relay coils had to be connected in parallel.



Here is the circuit board in a weatherproof enclosure with the cabling brought in with glands. This enclosure is fastened to the left of the steering column, near the wiring penetration to the engine compartment. There is enough space to tuck it away and when secured high and tight it will never touch one's feet and interfere with driving in any way.



I dug up the old layout for proto-board assembly.



Here is the wiring map that I came up with to identify all connections. This is to be interpreted with a left-to-right flow.



Here is the completed assembly, ready for installation.



Here is the wind booster module tucked away with all the splices, the car connection to the module harness is zip tied on top. You can also see the entire cable bundle zip tied loosely to the steering column. This has caused no issues whatsoever in terms of steering impairment, or cable wear. It was pretty much the only option to secure the cabling this high up which is the goal. This has been installed like this since August 2024 and has survived two winters.



This is the control location for activation using one of these illuminated switches. The other one was for something unrelated.

That is the question. What is the best thing to start with? Bang for the buck, what direction do I go? Are any required if Lap3 product is in my future with maybe a little pop in the tune? Are both necessary short term or long term? I am just getting to the point where I think these are the next changes to make. Thanks in advance for answers.

Hi everyone,

I recently got a 19' GT1 AWD, and I have the BMS 450WHP kit, and a TiAL BOV, with the BMS adapter and I was wondering if this looks good for a 1/4-mile run. I have been reading into the expected boost levels and was wondering if these logs look alright or not. Any help is greatly appreciated.

I recently installed a carbon ceramic brake rotor setup from Jisu Sports as part of my ongoing effort to build what I consider the ultimate Stinger GTS. I’ve been driving on just the front CCB for the last couple months and just got the rears fitted. For context, I’ve previously run the Fella setup on this car, and before that EBC two-piece front rotors. Both of those setups were solid and performed well, good bite, good heat management, and overall a noticeable upgrade over OEM. That said, this carbon ceramic setup is on a completely different level.

Beyond just the raw stopping power, the biggest improvement is in vehicle dynamics. The reduction in unsprung and rotational mass is immediately apparent. Turn-in is sharper, front-end response is quicker, and the car feels way more composed under hard braking and trail braking. With less rotating mass at each corner, the suspension can do its job more effectively, improving mid-corner stability and overall chassis control. Pedal feel remains so much more consistent even after repeated heavy braking, and brake fade is essentially nonexistent, and confidence in high-speed braking zones is significantly improved. There’s also a subtle but real benefit to acceleration due to reduced rotational inertia, no numbers but you can definitely feel it.

One bonus that matters more than I expected: THEY DON’T RUST. Surface rust on iron rotors has been a long-standing pet peeve of mine across multiple vehicles, and it’s refreshing to have a setup that stays clean and consistent without the usual corrosion issues. So this wasn’t a cosmetic upgrade just it fundamentally changed how the car behaves. The focus of this build has always been balance, control, and repeatable performance, not just horsepower numbers. This setup feels like a major step toward the GTS the platform always deserved.

Happy to answer questions or share more details if anyone’s considering going this route. Here is the link to my supplier, the representative Yilia Liu was super responsive and friendly and helped with every step of the process.

I’m getting white smoke from this (pics attached)
area of my engine. It’s the same area as the recall for the turbo oil line recall which had done last year. I took it to the Dealer said they see no issues with the recall repair and claimed oil was spilled on my last oil change (last week). They “cleaned” my engine bay free of charge and said there’s no more smoke. I drive home and of course there’s still smoke. Any idea what it could be? Blown head gasket? Or something as simple as a line leak?

I took pictures from the area of smoke and it seems to me that something may have cracked (sorry I’m no mechanic) but pictures are attached.

Anyone tried the Akrapovic tips on a 2022? pics? I’m wondering if they fit through the oem holes now without changing anything.

Seeing if anyone has had any experience with this before I take it to the dealer.

Oil pressure light comes on while idling, under 800 RPM it will come on and go off once I go over 800 RPM.

No CEL, oil is at Full mark on stick, oil changed 2k miles ago with 5w-30, at 61k miles.