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Was hoping to post a track video this week but socal weather wouldn't cooperate.. So here is our Port Injection built and dyno testing!

2019 stinger GT all-wheel-drive 40,000 miles and our other 2019 GT two with 60,000 miles have both had torque converter leaks from the transmission Bell housing covered under warranty but a real pain in the ass takes nearly a month to get the car back anybody else experiencing this what are the odds both our stingers fell victim to this leak?

Hi everyone,

I recently got a 19' GT1 AWD, and I have the BMS 450WHP kit, and a TiAL BOV, with the BMS adapter and I was wondering if this looks good for a 1/4-mile run. I have been reading into the expected boost levels and was wondering if these logs look alright or not. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Hello everybody,

I have a 2019 GT-line 2.0 RWD Stinger, 71k miles (115k km) that has all of the GT2 (3.3l) options except for the brembo brakes (yes, I have the adaptive suspension as well, it's a German version of the car with all of the options).

I see very high fuel usage during my daily commute and I did some tests at night on the highway, both in summer and winter. Premium tires for summer and winter, at the recommended pressure, no luggage / people in the car, warm engine and transmission:
- 110 km/h = 8.0l/100km // 69MPH = 29MPG (8th gear at 1850-1900 rpm)
- 130 km/h = 10l/100km // 82MPH = 24MPG (8th gear at 2150-2200 rpm)

This happens on ECO, Comfort and Sport mode.

This is tested exclusively on a straight highway road and it doesn't take into consideration the accelerations to get up to speed when entering the highway, it's strictly constant accelerator pedal and speed.

From what I could find on the forums, even the 3.3 Stinger gets better fuel economy when cruising like this. So something must be wrong with mine. I've drove another Stinger exactly like mine and that one had better fuel economy, on the same road I did the tests (29-30MPG at 85MPH // 8l/100km at 135km/h). Both cars have the same ECU and TCU software version, the one after the GPF issue was fixed in the software, so it cannot be that popular GPF logic bug that was happening on early softwares.

- replaced the spark plugs, the old ones had around 30k km (20k miles) and were black (attached photo)
- I did a smoke test for the intake, no leaks detected.
- The fuel rail pressure stays around 20000 kpa (2900 psi).
- The O2 sensor reports fluctuations between 0.95 and 0.98, where 1 is stoichiometric A/F ratio and 2 is 100% oxygen and 0% fuel, so it reports just a bit rich mixture, too small I think to count. Also the other Stinger that I drove had the same values and not the consumption issue.
- LTFT stayed at 4.5% and STFT stayed around -1% to 1%
- intake manifold absolute pressure was at 97-100kpa
- timing advance between 15 and 18 degrees
- cat 1 temp 780°C and cat 2 temp 680°C
- engine coolant stays around 100°C, engine oil is around the same temperature

It drives me crazy cause I use it as a daily and burns through my pocked with that fuel usage (20-25% more than it should). In mixed driving I get around 15l/100km (15MPG) without any hard accelerations.

I am planning to do the following hoping I might find the issue:
- replace the fuel pressure sensor (a few times I got the P0191 error and was showing fuel rail pressure at 500-600 kpa, so 10-40 times lower than normal, goes away after turning the engine off and on again)
- try to see if the dealership can override the current ECU fuel map with the stock one, to make sure the previous owner did not try to tune it or anything
- replace the upstream O2 sensor
- take down the GPF and have it checked physically at a specialized service to make sure it is not clogged
- replace the MAP sensor
- replace the HPFP

If anyone can help me in this matter would be great!

With the Stinger's release right around the corner, Post pics and give updates of what you did to your Stinger. From a simple car wash to installing aftermarket items. Andddddd go!

There's lots of mods and upgrades to be seen at KDM Warehouse!

My drivers seat was not returning to my preset position so I took it to the dealer and after a bit of discussion (they originally thought something needed to be replaced) and after a couple visits a tech “Reset” the seat and it worked properly again. Fast forward about 8-10 months and it’s at it again. I would like to save myself the frustration of another dealer visit so I’m wondering if any of our sharp techie types here might know how to do this and would be will to share the knowledge. Thanks in advance to anyone who may be able to help. Cheers B.

TLDR: If I went to 245/35r18 (or 255) tires all around for track days, what effect would that have on handling?

I had a very fun and rewarding track day with all my track focused improvements done (new PB's are always exciting), one of which was the Cup2 tires (235/40r19 front and 265/35r19 rear).
I tracked the wear and tear and found that the fronts wore 1.27mm left & 1.15mm right, while the rears didn't wear at all.

I get the feeling the front OEM tires are undersized for hard braking and cornering, so if I widen those, I might as well meet in the middle with the rears for a square setup. At this rate the rears will probably age out before they wear out, but going to a square 245 or 255 setup would let me rotate the tire's any which way and even out the tread wear.

Was also considering dropping to 18" rims to reduce unsprung mass. Any input would help before I go finding out the hard way .

Seeing if anyone has had any experience with this before I take it to the dealer.

Oil pressure light comes on while idling, under 800 RPM it will come on and go off once I go over 800 RPM.

No CEL, oil is at Full mark on stick, oil changed 2k miles ago with 5w-30, at 61k miles.

2020 KIA Stinger GT2

Here are my specifications:

- K&N CAI

- MBRP catback exhaust

- DC Sports Mid pipes

- Single ADD W1 Catch Can

- JB4 with EWG wires and fuel wires (JB4 was recently installed on January 31, 2026)

- Brand new ignition coils

- Brand new HKS plugs gapped to 0.022

- I only use 94 octane or 93, no lower

- Running MAP 1



I spoke to Terry at Burger Motorsport, and honestly, he wasn’t very helpful. He was extremely vague and told me to change FF from 50 to 30. All his emails were also vague and didn’t provide much help in diagnosing my issue. So, I’m reaching out to you all to see if you can assist me.


I want to avoid going to a dealership and fix it myself if possible.


For a while now, I’ve been experiencing issues where, around 2,000 rpm or a little less, the car would randomly enter some type of limp mode or protection mode. It barely allowed me to accelerate, even if I floored the gas pedal. Additionally, it would display a CEL. When I scan the car right when it comes on, no errors are shown. Even after turning the car off and on in accessory mode, as recommended, there are still no errors. However, when I turn the car all the way over, the engine light goes off, and everything returns to normal until it happens again.



I read that changing the ignition coils and spark plugs should fix the issue, but it didn’t. I changed both together and gapped the plugs (0.022).



Now, I’m undergoing some testing, and Terry told me to adjust the FF/Wastegate from 50 to 30. That seemed to help quite a bit because it was happing more frequent if I remember correctly! However, I can still get it to happen if I do a spirited drive, then slow down to come to a stop. Then, I accelerate normally, but if I take my foot off the gas pedal to slow and and let the RPMs drop to around 2,000 rpm or a little lower, and then accelerate normally to get the car to move forward more, the car will cut a lot of power. This results in a CEL, forcing me to pull over, turn the car off, and then turn it back on again.

I’ve tried recreating it by getting to those low rpms without accelerating hard beforehand, but I couldn’t reproduce the problem.



Today, I tested again, but this time I set JB4 to map 0. I drove for an hour, spirited here and there when I could and testing it often as I lowered the rpms to around 1,500-2,000, trying to recreate the issue. However, it didn’t happen once. Everything felt fine and as it should.



I need your input on this. Is there a setting in JB4 that I can adjust to help more?



The settings in JB4 were actually set as recommended on the website where I purchased the EWG wires. Here are the settings I have set to:

- Duty Bias: All to 50

- FF/Wastegate: 30 (was set to 50)

- PID gain: 20

- Auto shift reduction: 60



I was able to log it one time when I sent it to Terry. Not sure if it helps or not. But it did happen when I was logging. He wasn’t clear from this log what the issue is…