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Just a few days back, I found I cannot make phone calls in the car. So what happens is I press the call button on the steering wheel and say, "Call Julie on mobile" and the car responds "Calling Julie on mobile" What happens from this point on is that all sound stops. I cannot hear the dialed phone ringing and I can tell when it is answered as I can see the call timer start. The called party hear nothing and I hear nothing. Have tried it with the cable connection and also with bluetooth. Same reult. Tried another iPhone and same issue. Tried with two android phones and same issue. Have updated OS on the phone and also downloaded latest firmware from KIa and installed. it. Sent an enquiry to local dealer.. no reply. Sent an enquiry to Kia themselves (here in Australia) and so far no reply. So.. was wondering if anybody else on the form has had this issue. All other features work, Waze, Music etc. Just calls that are the issue. Also tried resetting head unit, disconnecting the battery for a half hour... no change. Any comments or experiences most welcome.

Hello Everyone, I am a long time Stinger owner, but first time poster. I was looking to gather opinions to get an idea when I should change the spark plugs on my 2021 Stinger GT. The mileage on the car is relatively low, given that I purchased the car new in 2020. It just a tick over 40k miles and mostly freeway. I use a high quality premium gas and the car runs great.

Back in the day, I would do all the maintenance work on my cars myself, but I can no longer do for many reasons. The dealership wants $700 to do it as a “recommended” service interval. I’m calling BS, but wanted to get other opinions. Thanks in advance.

Hello all. Been a while since I have been back here. Still loving my Stinger but have a recent issue at 74k miles. Had a nice "chat" with ChatGPT after talking to my service rep. They are still diagnosing the issue but figured I would document the issue here in case it helps anyone else in the future. I was able to upload the Kia Warranty and my Extended Warranty for additional context. I asked ChatGPT to summarize our conversation just so I had all the information organized.

Car:
2019 Kia Stinger GT (3.3TT)
~74,000 miles

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Initial Symptoms:

• Check engine light with misfires on cylinders 1, 3, and 5 (same bank)
• Car would go into limp mode
• Issue would temporarily reset after restarting the engine

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Escalation:

• Problem became more frequent
• Eventually the check engine light stayed on
• Car stalled at a stoplight (restarted after putting it in park)
• Dropped the car off at the dealer immediately

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Dealer Actions So Far:

• Replaced spark plugs and ignition coils → did NOT fix issue
• Now diagnosing further with Kia tech support
• Mentioned finding oil pooling
• Indicated that engine replacement is a possibility (still under investigation)

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What This Likely Points To (based on research + feedback):

• Not ignition-related (already ruled out)
• Likely a bank-specific issue (since 1,3,5 all affected)
• Most probable causes:
  
  • Fuel system issue (injectors / fuel delivery)
  • Turbo oil seal / oil ingestion
  • PCV system issue
  • VVT / cam timing issue
  • Internal engine issue (rings/valves)

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Warranty Situation:

• Basic warranty expired (5yr / 60k)
• Powertrain warranty (10yr / 100k) still active
• Issue clearly falls under:
  
  • Engine internals
  • Fuel system
  • Turbo system

Dealer has not officially confirmed coverage yet, but this appears to be a legitimate powertrain claim

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Important Notes for Others:

• If you get multiple misfires on one bank, don’t assume it’s just plugs/coils
• Limp mode + stalling = serious underlying issue
• Bring the car in ASAP and avoid driving it
• Let the dealer diagnose BEFORE paying for repairs yourself
• Even without perfect maintenance records, warranty claims can still be valid unless neglect directly caused the issue

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Current Status:
Waiting on final diagnosis from dealer + Kia corporate
Will update once I know whether it’s a repair or full engine replacement

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Hope this helps someone else—happy to answer questions or update once resolved. Some of this info is probably obvious to alot of you on here but I am not super educated on cars but love my Stinger!

Thanks for the add! I'm looking to buy a Stinger and here to learn about them.

First time posting long time learning from this thread.
I’m gonna purchase a CPI kit from BMS along with their intercooler. I had a few questions before doing so. I will obviously have the correct BEF from BMS to run higher ethanol from the cpi but my question comes down to whether I can run full e85 or not. Will the 1500cc nozzle help with being able to push a higher ethanol content through or should I just stick with the 950? I’ve seen a few people say they’ve been able to run full e85 (I’m sure this also comes from adjusting settings for watermeth/cpi in the jb4 app) . I’m not looking to get better gains from running full e85 I’ve seen many say you dont get that much more performance past e60 on this bef. Im doing it just to be able to fill up and not mix/ waste time at pump
I’m still new to tuning and upgrading so any advice would be greatly appreciated

2018 GT2 AWD, 108k mi, looks like my good luck might finally be running out.

Here's what my dash looks like after driving around the block:




As you can see, I've been accumulating lights on my dash over the last ~9 months. First, the EPB, red Brake and amber Auto Hold lights would come on intermittantly, then as of about 4 months ago they came on as soon as I start the car and stay on. This would also disable cruise control whenever the lights were on.

The traction, ABS, forward collision, and the top right warning lights came next ~2 months ago, just randomly showed up one day and come on and stay on as soon as I start the car now.
The AWD light in the top left does not come on when I start the car, but comes on soon after driving for a bit.

Mechanically, the car still feels absolutely fine, except for the fact that the cruise control is disabled and the front wheels no longer get power once the ABS light comes on. The front parking sensors still work but presumably the actual forward collision avoidance is disabled as well. No weird noises, no starting problems, no actual CEL or anything like that.





Those are all the codes I currently have. Initial Googling wasn't too helpful, but some responses told me that maybe my battery could be on it's way out. I had it load tested at a local place and they said it's a touch low but still well within acceptable, and since I'm not having any other starting/electrical problems and they didn't even try to sell me a new one I figured I'm good there. The only other things Google immediately turned up were either a general wiring issue somewhere or...





Pics from my wheel speed sensors. That seems to be the first common problem that would cause this, but I'm not really sure what's going on here. As you can see, they're reading rather different values between front and rear. First pic was taken at ~55 MPH. Immediately I thought my tires must just be uneven. So, I went home and swapped my fronts and rear wheels around (I have square 235/45R18s). Second pic is ~60 MPH after swapping my front and rear tires, same issue. First of all, if a sensor was bad, wouldn't it just be reporting nothing? Is it possible that two of the sensors are failing at the exact same time, and in exactly the same way?

Other than that, the only thing that looks obvious to me is the C138201 Hall level sensor fault. Again, Googling didn't turn up too much on this so I'm not really sure where to go with that, and would that really be causing all these problems?

I haven't tried clearing any of the codes yet. Almost all of them are reading as active though so I assume they would just come back. Anyone have any idea how I can fix this? I would prefer to order parts and do the work myself if possible if someone can point me at what to replace. Thank you!!

I am doing some reading on those batteries. Was just wondering if anyone here is DD with that battery?

I will be selling my 2022 Kia stinger GT. All of the below parts have less than 6k miles on them. I did not drive my car much, only to work. Buyer pays shipping, price does not include shipping, I am located in Illinois in the Chicago area if want to pick up in person.

BMS Intercooler $475
BMS vanity covers $60
BMS JB4 with fuel wires pnp plugs $450
BMS transmission cooler $325
BMS CPI complete kit with FSB $600 ($900 new)
Takeda intakes $325
Mishimoto oil catch can $150
GFB Blow off valves- dual whistle $350
EK1 lite $ 325
Oem exhaust 2022 - $300
Oem down pipes -$300
Trunk all weather stinger mat - $40
Velossa tech snorkles- $175

Funny or clever plates. Anybody seen any?

I saw 2 yesterday which made me chuckle.

On the back of an AMG CLA45 - “AMGOMG”

And on the back of a Toyota Hilux - “HIRUX’

I guess the Hilux could potentially offend some people but I thought it was funny. Bit surprised they let it through TBH.

Anybody else seen any funny plates?