Help! Stinger/G70 3.3T alternator replacement…

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Dexos_C7Z

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Hi all, I’m wondering if it’s possible to replace the alternator on a stinger/g70 3.3 at home in my garage with my basic tools. Yesterday I had an issue of a dead battery and after recharging and having autozone test my battery we determined that my battery is healthy. And I used the alternator test function on my battery charger and it said my alternator was bad. I can’t find anything on the internet depicting the process of changing an alternator on these cars. I read on a forum/Reddit post someone saying the engine had to come out for the alternator… and a friend of mine who works at a auto shop said he would have to remove the front subframe and quoted me $1100 for the job.

I’m just wondering if anyone has experience and insight with this. I’m really hoping it’s possible for me to just remove the passenger side intake and some other parts in the area and replace it myself.
 
at a minimum, the plumbing for the passenger side turbo has to come out. if you can finagle that without taking out the engine, it might work. are you absolutely sure it's the alternator? have you checked the battery sensor and its fuse, as well as the alternator fuse? it's rare for the alternator to go on these.
 
Snowwhite said:
at a minimum, the plumbing for the passenger side turbo has to come out. if you can finagle that without taking out the engine, it might work. are you absolutely sure it's the alternator? have you checked the battery sensor and its fuse, as well as the alternator fuse? it's rare for the alternator to go on these.
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The battery was at only 10.1 volts yesterday, and after charging, I started the car and the battery was only running with 12.2 volts, and wasn’t running at 13.5/14.2 that I would expect with the assistance of the alternator.

I haven’t checked the battery sensor/fuse or the alternator fuse. Do have any info/videos on how to check those items?
I’m really hoping I won’t have to replace the alternator. It’s just unexpected at only 6 years old and only 33k miles.
 
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the alternator fuse is a big poppa labelled "ALT" in the underhood fuse block:

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battery sensor fuse is on the battery ground cable.

Note that modern cars don't always charge the battery, to save .2 miles per gallon. but definitely check those fuses. I don't think that battery owed you anything after 6 years though.

the book instructions for the 3.3 alternator do tell you to drop the engine.
 
zombiedude said:
Curious how this plays out as well. Working on installing a couple 10in 800rms subs in the back of my G70 3.3t and my 1800w rms amp might stress the alternator a bit. Was looking at "Power Bastards 270a High Output Alternator for Genesis G70 and Kia Stinger" as a potential backup plan, but I'd rather underpower my setup then pay to drop my engine.
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Unless you're competing in SPL competitions, or using your car to broadcast music across a field, even very loud listening (ie anything you can tolerate inside the car) is unlikely to draw significant average power/current. It's much more likely that the peak draw will dim your headlights and drag your voltage down momentarily.

So before you do an alternator upgrade, it's probably worth adding a big capacitor. They can move a ton of charge very quickly, which is why they're sometimes called "voltage stiffeners". They don't hold much total energy (that's what your battery is for), but react very quickly to transient current draws.
 
I thought the OEM 180Amp alternator was massive.
 
All the mods and upgrades for your Stinger you could ever ask for. CLICK HERE!
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Underpowered is terrible idea for so many reasons but if you try pulling too much juice from it then it's getting smoked either way.
 
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